China Town
A Chinatown is a section of an urban area associated with a large number of Chinese within a city outside the majority-Chinese countries of China, Taiwan, and Singapore. Chinatowns are most common in East Asia, Southeast Asia, Australia, North America and the United Kingdom.
In the past, overcrowded Chinatowns in urban areas were generally shunned by the non-Chinese public as ethnic ghettos, and seen as places of vice and cultural insularity where "unassimilable foreigners" congregated. Nowadays, many old and new Chinatowns are considered significant centers of commercialism and tourism. Some of them also serve, to various degrees, as centers of multiculturalism if in a somewhat superficial manner.
Many Chinatowns are focused on commercial tourism whereas others are actual living and working communities; some are a synthesis of both. Chinatowns also range from rundown ghettos to modern sites of recent development. In some, recent investments have revitalized run-down and blighted areas and turned them into centers of economic and social activity. In some cases, this has led to gentrification and a reduction in the specifically Chinese character of the neighborhoods.
Many Chinatowns have a long history, such as Shinchimachi, the nearly three-century old Chinatown in Nagasaki, Japan, or Yaowarat Road in Bangkok, which was founded by Chinese traders more than 200 years ago. Melbourne Chinatown, established in the Victorian gold rush in 1854, is the longest continuously running Chinatown outside of Asia (San Francisco Chinatown was built earlier during the California Gold Rush, but rebuilt after it was destroyed by earthquakes). Other Chinatowns are much newer, for example, the Chinatown in Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S. formed in the 1990s. Most Chinatowns grew without any organized plans, while a very few (such as the one in Las Vegas and a new area outside the city limits of Seoul, South Korea to be completed by late 2005) were developed following deliberate plans (sometimes as part of redevelopment projects to better the location). Indeed, many areas of the world promote the commercial development and redevelopment (or regeneration) of Chinatowns, such as Germany, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom.
Source: Wikipedia
The reality of Chinatown is that there are two Chinatowns: One belongs to the locals, the other charms the tourists. They overlap and dance with each other, drawing more visitors annually than the Golden Gate Bridge.
Why the popularity? Because visitors expect something they won't find anywhere else. They expect to be stunned and enchanted and stuffed with great food. And they will.
You don't need an itinerary to tackle Chinatown. Wandering aimlessly, weaving between locals and ducking into shops is enough of a plan. Main Street for tourists is Grant Avenue, which is more about cheap and kitschy plastic Buddhas than the long heritage of Chinatown. It should definitely be seen, but moving on to the next block can be more rewarding.
For deep immersion into Chinatown, be sure to examine the many produce and live markets that line Stockton Street (between Columbus and Broadway) on a Saturday afternoon. That is where the locals do their shopping, and Saturday is the busiest day. Untrained Western eyes may find the sight of live turtles, chickens and other animals peculiar, but the markets are definitely interesting. Coupled with the clogged streets and the shouting matches over bok choy, they make for an all-day attraction.
Exploring the pocket-size side streets at night is another great way to run into something unforeseen. Dive bars in Chinatown are small, dark and moody, with locals playing dice and visitors wandering in with curious looks on their faces.
For a complete history of Chinatown, The SF Ultimate Guide tells the story from its roots.
Chinatown Gate: A gloriously decorated gate marks the entry to Grant Avenue's Chinatown. It was unveiled in 1970, and helped secure the street's status as the neighborhood's center. Once you're past the gate, you'll see elaborate 1920s streetlights sculpted to resemble golden dragons lighting the way. Grant Avenue and Bush Street.
Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory: Here, tucked inside a storefront on tiny Ross Alley, some 20,000 fortune cookies a day are handmade by two women, each manning a conveyor belt of what look like miniature waffle irons. The factory opened in August 1962, and though there are other fortune cookie bakeries in the city, this is the only one where the cookies are still made by hand, the old-fashioned way. Anyone is welcome to stroll in and watch the cookies being made, sample a cookie, and pick up a bag of 40 for $3. The factory is open seven days a week, 7 a. m. to 8:30 p.m.. Admission is free. But if you want to take a photograph - and how could you resist? - a sign by the front asks for 50 cents. 56 Ross Alley, (415) 781-3956.
Waverly Place: A picturesque street full of sights and smells to overwhelm you. It is also the nexus of temples in Chinatown, including Tien Hau. Parallel to Grant Avenue and Stockton Street, between Washington and Sacramento streets.
EVENTS
Autumn Moon Festival: Also called the Mid-Autumn Festival, the Moon Festival takes place in September, around the same time as the autumn equinox. Highlights typically include live entertainment such as martial arts, acrobats, Chinese opera, karaoke, music, dance and a youth talent contest, with plenty of activities for children like Chinese calligraphy, mini-car races and more. (Web site)
Chinese New Year: The neighborhood gets decked out in red banners for one of San Francisco's largest festivals. The Lunar New Year is celebrated with food, flowers, firecrackers and envelopes of "lucky money." The two-week celebration includes music events, street fairs and the Miss Chinatown USA pageant and culminates with a spectacular parade featuring a 160-foot-long dragon. (SF Gate's Chinese New Year page)
HISTORY
Chinese Historical Society of America: The Chinese Historical Society of America is one of the oldest and largest organizations dedicated to the study, documentation, and dissemination of Chinese American history. 965 Clay St., (415) 391-1188. (Web site)
TEMPLES AND CHURCHES
Buddhas Universal Church: Standing five stories, Buddhas Universal Church is the largest Buddhist church in the country. Built in 1961, the temple is a place of serenity for the largest Buddhist congregation in San Francisco. It also affords views over the whole city. 720 Washington St., (415) 982-6116. (Web site)
First Chinese Baptist Church: One of the oldest churches in the community, the First Chinese Baptist Church was organized in 1880, with the congregation settling into a building at the current location eight years later. The church at the site was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake and rebuilt in 1908. The church offers services as well as language classes. 15 Waverly Place, (415) 362-4139. (Web site)
Gold Mountain Sagely Monastery: This Buddhist sanctuary in the heart of Chinatown offers lectures on Buddhism, Sutra recitations, and meditation classes. 800 Sacramento St., (415) 421-6117.
Kong Chow Temple: This Taoist temple, founded in 1857, has some of the most colorful altars in the entire city. The green, red and gold altars display representations of various gods. This fourth-floor location was built in 1977, and is also home to the Chinatown Post Office. 855 Stockton St., (415) 788-1339.
Norras Temple: Norras Temple is the oldest Buddhist Temple in San Francisco, dating back more than 50 years. Featuring an altar made of wood imported from China, the temple is also adorned with symbols from Tibetan Buddhism. The temple itself was named after Tibet's Norras Buddhist Temple. 109 Waverly St., (Third Floor), 415-362-1993.
Old St. Mary's Cathedral: Old St. Mary's is one of the most prominent buildings in the Chinatown area. The cathedral was built by Chinese laborers in 1854 using brick that was shipped around Cape Horn and granite from China. Though the original was destroyed in the 1906 earthquake, the cathedral was rebuilt in 1909. 660 California St., (415) 288-3800. (Web site)
Chronicle article: Old St. Mary's Turns 150
Tien Hau Temple: Each floor of this building has a completely different look to it, ranging from opulent to neon. It was designed in 1911 and achieved its mishmash of influences through the years. On the top floor is the temple, dedicated to the Goddess of Heaven. Brightly painted on the outside, with the scent of incense wafting from its walls, the temple is a sanctuary for the people. Opening time varies. Admission is free, but a donation is appreciated. 125 Waverly Place (at Clay Street), no phone.
ARTS/GALLERIES
Kee Fung Ng Gallery: Though it may not look like much from the outside, Kee Fung displays an impressive array of wall-hanging scrolls, paintings, soapstone statues and other carvings. 757 Grant Ave., (415) 434-1844.
Shakris Fine Asian Works of Art: True Asian antiques take centerstage at Shakris. The gallery highlights Chinese ceramics dating from the Han Dynasty, jade pieces, such as an owl-faced pendant, from 4,000 to 2,500 BC, and religious sculptures from the Ming Dynasty. Shakris also showcases works from other Asian countries, such as Khmer stone and bronze sculptures, Indonesian arts and Japanese Netsuke carvings. 954 Bush St., (415) 929-0280.
Chinese Culture Center: The center offers a variety of cultural events, including exhibitions of traditional and contemporary art, performances of Chinese Opera and dance, classes in Chinese language, painting and floral design, publications, tours, artists workshops and craft fairs. The center also donates its facilities to the Chinatown Community Arts Program. 750 Kearny Street, 3rd Floor, (415) 986-1822. (Web site)
Stylers Art Gallery: This small gallery offers classes in Chinese calligraphy, brush painting, and other traditional Chinese arts. 661 Jackson St., (415) 788-8639.
MURALS AND PUBLIC ART
Stockton Street Mural-Chinese Railroad Workers by Amy Nelder. At Victory Memorial Hall, erected by the China War Relief Association of America.
Photos of People from the Neighborhood by Darryl Mar, 1995. At the North Beach Parking Garage, 735 Vallejo Street, between Columbus and Stockton streets.
Five Carved Stones by Marcia Donahue, 2000. At Chinatown Park (Woh Hei Yuen Park), Powell St. between Jackson and John streets.
Tectonic Melange by Lampo Leong, 2000. At Chinatown Park (Woh Hei Yuen Park), Powell St. between Jackson and John streets.
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